Rigging Materials & Splicing
Compare stainless steel, synthetic Dyneema, and other rigging types — then splice your own lines with locked-brummel and tucked-eye procedures.
MATCH THE MATERIAL TO THE LOAD · SPLICE OVER KNOT
Standing rigging needs stiffness (1x19 or rod); running rigging needs flexibility (Dyneema or 7x19). A splice keeps 90–100% of line strength — a knot keeps only half. Inspect, protect from chafe, and replace on a cycle.
Rigging Material Types
Stainless Steel Wire — 1x19
19 strands in a single, stiff construction. The standard for standing rigging (shrouds, stays).
Advantages
- Very low stretch — ideal for stays and shrouds
- High stiffness and dimensional stability
- Long service life (10–15 years typical)
- Resistant to UV and chafe
Disadvantages
- Cannot be flexed repeatedly — not for running rigging
- Susceptible to crevice corrosion (hidden under fittings)
- Heavy compared to synthetic
- Requires swage or mechanical terminals
Stainless Steel Wire — 7x19
7 strands of 19 wires each. Flexible wire rope used for lifelines, halyards, and running backstays.
Advantages
- Flexible — works over sheaves and around fittings
- Good for lifelines and halyard applications
- Reasonable stretch for shock absorption
- Corrosion-resistant when maintained
Disadvantages
- More stretch than 1x19 — not for standing rigging
- Strands can birdcage or deform under shock loads
- Heavier than synthetic equivalents
- Terminal fittings add cost and complexity
Synthetic — Dyneema / Spectra (SK75/SK99)
Ultra-high-molecular-weight polyethylene (UHMWPE). Light, strong, and increasingly used for standing and running rigging.
Advantages
- Weight savings of up to 80% over wire
- Strength-to-weight ratio far exceeds steel
- Floats — no waterlogging
- Spliceable by hand — no swaging needed
- Does not corrode
Disadvantages
- Creeps under constant high load (slow elongation)
- Degrades with UV — needs cover or replacement cycle
- Low melting point (~150°C) — friction heat can damage
- Vulnerable to chafe at contact points
- Higher material cost than wire
Galvanised Steel Wire
Carbon steel wire with a zinc coating. Traditional, budget rigging for trailered boats and moorings.
Advantages
- Lowest cost wire option
- Strong and predictable
- Zinc coating self-sacrifices against rust
- Suitable for mooring pendants and trailered boats
Disadvantages
- Coating wears — rusts once breached
- Requires regular inspection and re-galvanising
- Heavier and less stiff than stainless
- Not for permanent saltwater exposure
Rod Rigging (Navtec / discontinuous)
Solid stainless rods (Nitronic 50) used on racing yachts for minimum stretch and windage.
Advantages
- Lowest stretch of any rigging type
- Smallest windage profile
- High fatigue resistance under cyclic load
- Preferred for grand-prix racing
Disadvantages
- Cannot be spliced or bent — needs cold-headed terminals
- Very expensive
- Fatigue cracks are invisible until failure
- Requires professional installation and inspection
Comparison at a Glance
| Property | SS 1x19 | SS 7x19 | Dyneema | Galvanised | Rod |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Strength-to-weight | Medium | Medium | Excellent | Medium | High |
| Stretch (stiffness) | Very Low | Moderate | Low (creeps) | Moderate | Lowest |
| Weight | Heavy | Heavy | Very Light | Heavy | Heavy |
| UV resistance | Excellent | Excellent | Poor (cover needed) | Good | Excellent |
| Chafe resistance | Excellent | Good | Poor (protect) | Good | Excellent |
| Corrosion resistance | Good (crevice risk) | Good | Excellent | Poor once worn | Good |
| Spliceable by hand | No | Yes (tucked) | Yes (brummel) | Yes (tucked) | No |
| Cost | Medium | Medium | High | Low | Very High |
| Typical use | Standing rigging | Lifelines, halyards | Running & standing | Moorings, trailers | Racing rig |
Splicing Procedures
Locked-Brummel Splice — Hollow-Braid Dyneema
For 12-strand or single-braid Dyneema. Retains ~95–100% of line strength.
Measure & Mark the Eye
Determine the eye size you need. Mark a point on the line at a distance equal to the eye circumference plus 40× the line diameter for the bury tail.
Taper the End
Unlay the last 10cm of the tail and cut alternate strands back in a long staggered taper so the buried section feathers smoothly into the cover.
Brummel Lock — Insert the Point
Push a fid (splicing tool) into the hollow core at the mark, exiting one full diameter further up the line. Pass the tail through this opening to form the first lock.
Second Lock
Re-enter the line one diameter beyond the first lock and exit one diameter further. Pass the tail through again. Two locks now trap the eye permanently without a knot.
Bury the Tail
Milk the cover down over the buried tail so it disappears inside the core. The tail should taper and sit fully inside for at least 40 diameters.
Set the Splice
Tension the eye firmly, then milk the cover from the eye toward the tail to pack the bury tight. A light whipping or stitching at the eye lock prevents slippage before load sets it.
Two interlocking brummel locks trap the eye without a knot; the tapered tail is buried inside the hollow core for at least 40 line diameters, then the cover is milked tight.
Tucked-Eye Splice — 7x19 Stainless Wire
For flexible wire rope. Requires a marlinspike and patience — at least 5 full tucks.
Form the Eye
Measure the eye circumference and mark the throat. Bend the wire at the mark to form the eye, keeping the tail parallel to the standing part.
Secure the Throat
Clamp or seize the throat with temporary wire so the strands cannot unravel while you tuck. The first tuck determines the eye shape.
Unlay the Tail
Unravel the tail into its 6 strands (7x19) or 6 strands (1x19). Keep each strand tightly wound — do not let them birdcage.
First Tuck Set
Tuck each strand under two standing strands, going against the lay. Work around the rope, one strand at a time, completing a full round of tucks.
Continue Tucking
Make at least 5 full rounds of tucks. Each strand goes under two, over one, repeating around the lay. Keep tucks tight and even.
Taper & Finish
For a fair finish, split alternate strands and cut half of them after the 4th round, then tuck the remainder for one more round. Roll the splice underfoot to bed it. Seize the throat.
Unlay the tail into 6 strands, seize the throat, then tuck each strand under-two/over-one against the lay for at least 5 full rounds. Taper alternate strands after round 4 for a fair finish.