How to Anchor
A complete step-by-step guide to anchoring your vessel safely and securely.
DEPTH · SCOPE · HOLDING · SWING
Anchoring successfully depends on knowing your depth, paying out enough scope, choosing good holding ground, and understanding your swing circle.
Anchoring Steps
Check Depth & Scope
Use your depth sounder to confirm adequate depth at all stages of tide. Calculate scope: a minimum 5:1 ratio (rode length to depth + height to bow) for chain, 7:1 for rope/chain mix.
Assess the Holding Ground
Check your chart for seabed type. Sand and mud offer the best holding; rock, coral, and weed are poor. Avoid areas with underwater cables or pipelines.
Check Wind & Tide Direction
Identify where the boat will swing. Look for other anchored boats — they indicate the swing pattern. Ensure your swing circle is clear of hazards, other vessels, and shallows.
Prepare Anchor & Rode
Flake the rode on deck so it runs free. Ensure the anchor is ready to drop, chain is untangled, and cleats are accessible. Brief crew on their roles.
Approach Upwind/Up-Current
Motor slowly into the wind or current (whichever is stronger) toward your chosen spot. Stop the boat when you reach the desired anchoring point.
Drop the Anchor
Lower the anchor smoothly — do not throw it. Pay out rode as the boat drifts backward. This prevents tangling and ensures the anchor sets properly.
Set the Anchor
Once the desired scope is out, cleat the rode and gently reverse the engine. The anchor should bite and hold. Watch for the rode going taut and the boat stopping.
Verify the Hold
Take two compass bearings on fixed landmarks ~90° apart. Wait 10–15 minutes and check again. If the bearings change, the anchor is dragging — re-set it.
Display Anchor Signal
Hoist a black ball shape in the bow during the day. At night, display an all-round white light. If over 50m, also show a second white light in the stern lower than the bow light.
Set an Anchor Watch
Use SAIL-OFF's Anchor Watch feature to set a GPS alarm. Check bearings periodically, especially when wind or tide changes. Always know your escape route.
Common Anchor Types
CQR / Plough
Good all-rounder for sand & mud
Hinged plough design that buries well and resets if wind shifts. Popular on cruising yachts.
Danforth / Fluke
Excellent in sand & mud
Lightweight with high holding power per kg. Can struggle in weed or rocky seabeds.
Rocna / Spade
Superior holding in most bottoms
Modern roll-bar design that sets instantly and holds in sand, mud, gravel, and weed.
Bruce / Claw
Reliable in rock & coral
Three-claw design that sets in most seabeds and doesn't break out easily on wind shifts.
Tips & Best Practices
ANCHORING AT REEFS
Reef anchoring requires extra care — coral damages ground tackle and the environment. Find sand, use a trip line, and monitor surge at all times.
Reef Anchoring Procedure
Identify a Sandy Patch
Reefs are surrounded by coral and rock, which damage anchors and the environment. Identify a clear sandy patch on the seabed using polarised sunglasses, depth sounder, or a quick snorkel check.
Check Tidal Range & Currents
Reef areas often have significant tidal flow and surge. Calculate depth for both high and low tide to ensure you don't go aground or drift onto the reef. Currents can differ from wind direction.
Approach with Caution
Approach slowly with a lookout watching for coral heads or shallow bommies. Use the engine rather than sails. Beware of swell wrapping around the reef — conditions can change rapidly.
Use a Trip Line
Always rig a trip line on the anchor buoyed to the surface. Coral and rock snag anchors — without a trip line, you may lose your ground tackle or damage the reef trying to retrieve it.
Deploy on the Sandy Patch
Position the boat over the identified sand patch and lower the anchor. Let the boat drift back gently. Do not power-set the anchor hard — sand over coral can be thin and the anchor may hit rock.
Use Reduced Scope
In reef anchorages with limited space, a 3:1 scope is often used since holding in sand over reef can be good. If using rope rode, ensure it won't chafe on coral heads. Adjust scope based on conditions and nearby reef proximity.
Monitor Surge & Swell
Reef passages create surge that can cause the anchor to work loose. Check bearings frequently. If surge is significant, consider setting a second anchor or re-locating.
Protect the Reef
Never let chain or rode drag across coral. Use a kellet or sentinel to keep the rode down. If the anchor is stuck, use the trip line rather than powering it free and damaging coral.
Plan Your Exit
Know your exit route if wind or swell changes direction. Reef anchorages can become dangerous quickly — have engine ready, sails ready to hoist, and a clear path to deeper water.
When to Use a Float on the Anchor Chain
A float — also called a kellet, sentinel, or angel — is a weight or buoy attached to the rode to alter its angle. There are two distinct uses: a weighted kellet (sinks the rode) and a buoyed float (lifts the chain). Use each in the right situation.
Weighted Kellet (sinks rode)
- Tight anchorages with limited swing room
- Short scope needed but want holding power
- Reduces shock loads in choppy conditions
- Keeps rode down away from keels or propellers
Buoyed Float (lifts chain)
- Anchoring over coral or reef — keeps chain off coral heads
- Deep water with long scope — reduces chain drag on seabed
- Retrieving a stuck anchor — float adds upward pull
- Trip line setup to mark anchor position and aid retrieval
Scope Guide
5:1
Chain (calm/normal)
7:1
Rope/Chain (overnight)
10:1
Storm conditions