SAIL-OFF provides 8 key pages for expert rigging, comprehensive maintenance tracking, and detailed sea trial logs, empowering every sailing adventure.

Procedure

Kedging — Moving the Boat with an Anchor

Use a kedge anchor and windlass or winches to haul the boat to safety when aground or without engine power.

SET · LEAD · HAUL · SECURE

Kedging moves the boat toward a set anchor, not the anchor toward the boat. Row the kedge out into deeper water, lead the rode fair to the windlass, and haul steadily until the boat is free.

When to Kedge

Aground & Need to Pull Off

When the boat is grounded and the engine cannot free it, a kedge anchor set in deeper water can winch the vessel off.

Engine Failure

No propulsion — kedging (warping) moves the boat short distances in calm water, a harbour, or a narrow channel.

Swing Room Too Tight

To reposition the boat within an anchorage when windlass power alone will not pivot the hull clear of another vessel.

Off a Lee Shore

To pull the boat off a shore or shallows when wind or current is pushing it into danger and no engine is available.

Equipment & Gear

Kedge Anchor

A lightweight secondary anchor (Danforth, Fortress, or Bruce) easy to row out and set.

Light Rode / Polyprop Line

Floating line so it stays on the surface and does not foul the prop or keel.

Windlass

Vertical or horizontal windlass to haul the boat toward the anchor. Check capacity and breaker.

Sheet Winches

Cockpit genoa winches (two-speed) for manual hauling when no windlass or as backup.

Dinghy or Tender

To carry the kedge anchor and rode out to a set position ahead of the boat.

Snubber / Bridle

To take load off the windlass once the boat is positioned, protecting the gearbox.

Fairleads & Rollers

Lead blocks so the rode runs fair to the windlass without chafing on the bow rail.

Chain Stopper

To hold the load on the chain/rode while you switch from hauling to securing.

Kedging Procedure

Assess the Situation

Confirm kedging is the right move. Check depth around the boat, tide direction, and what is holding you. If aground on a rising tide, waiting may be easier than kedging.

Choose the Pull Direction

Identify deeper water or the direction you need to move. The kedge anchor must be set in the opposite direction to the pull — you haul the boat toward the anchor, not the anchor toward the boat.

Prepare the Kedge & Rode

Flake the rode on deck so it runs free. Attach the kedge anchor to the end. Use floating polyprop line if possible so it does not sink and foul the keel or prop.

Row the Anchor Out

Load the anchor and rode into the dinghy. Row (or motor) to the set position — typically 3–5 boat lengths ahead in deeper water. Pay out rode as you go to avoid tangling.

Set the Kedge Anchor

Lower the anchor gently to the seabed. Back the dinghy away while paying out extra rode. Give a firm tug from the dinghy to set the flukes in sand or mud.

Bring the Rode to the Bow

Return to the boat and lead the kedge rode through the bow roller and fairlead to the windlass gypsy or a sheet winch. Ensure the lead is fair and will not chafe.

Take Up the Slack

Haul in slowly by hand or with the windlass until the rode is taut. Do not shock-load — steady tension sets the anchor deeper and avoids pulling it free.

Haul the Boat Forward

Engage the windlass (or grind the winch) steadily. The boat moves toward the anchor, not the anchor toward the boat. Keep the rode centered on the roller. Pause if the boat resists — it may be still aground.

If Aground, Heel & Pivot

As you haul, shift crew weight or swing the boom out to heel the boat and reduce draft. The reduced draft may let the keel slide free as the pull pivots the bow.

Free & Secure

Once floating free, do not immediately power ahead — check the rudder and prop are clear. Secure the kedge rode with a snubber or bridle and a chain stopper so the windlass is not holding the load.

Retrieve the Kedge

When in safe water, haul the kedge back aboard. Motor or sail slowly forward while recovering the rode to lighten the windlass load. Stow the kedge ready for next use.

Using the Windlass & Winches

Never use the windlass to break out a deeply set anchor — motor over it first, then haul

Windlass is for hauling the boat, not dragging the anchor; keep the boat moving toward it

Use a two-speed sheet winch if the windlass lacks power — the low gear gives more pull

Lead the rode through a fairlead block to avoid chafe on the bow rail or pulpit

Wear gloves — polyprop and chain will burn your hands under load

Keep fingers clear of the windlass gypsy and chain stopper while hauling

If the windlass trips its breaker, let it cool before resetting — do not bypass the breaker

Transfer the load to a snubber before switching the engine off, in case windlass power fails

Tips & Best Practices

A lighter anchor sets easier from a dinghy — a Fortress or Danforth kedge is ideal

Mark your rode so you know how much is out when setting the kedge

Set the kedge at least 3 boat-lengths away for a good angle of pull

Polyprop line floats — use it so the rode does not wrap the keel or prop

If no dinghy, you can drift the anchor out on a fender or float in light current

Haul steadily — jerking the rode pulls the anchor out rather than moving the boat

When aground, heel the boat as you haul to reduce draft and break suction

Two kedges set at an angle give a stronger and more directional pull

Always keep the kedge rigged and ready when entering shallow or tricky anchorages

If the windlass fails, lead the rode to a primary sheet winch as a backup hauler

Kedging Diagram

The kedge anchor is set in deeper water ahead of the grounded boat. The floating rode leads to the bow, and the windlass or winch hauls the boat toward the anchor until it floats free.

These are general guidelines. Kedging can place crew and ground tackle under significant load. Always assess tide and weather, use fair leads, and never shock-load a windlass or rode. If the boat is hard aground on rock, consider professional salvage rather than forcing the vessel free.